by Patricia Heller

If there is any alcoholic beverage more misunderstood that Sake, I know not what it is. And, I speak from experience. The first time I had it, undoubtedly in a Japanese restaurant many years ago, was the last (I likened it to rubbing alcohol, which I admit I haven’t tasted), until recently, when I spotted a variety of sakes (at a variety of prices) in a local Japanese market. I had driven by it for years and my decision to take a look not only revealed a plethora of wonderful foods, but allowed me to discover the pleasure of a long-disdained drink.The cool news: These high-end sakes are meant to be drunk over ice, or at least chilled. Depending on what you get (tasting several is the only way to go, since each of you will taste them differently), some actually have a creamy quality. Whatever you do, savor each one…they are full of surprises. Now, surely, to each his own. Millions of people drink “restaurant” sake and like it just fine. But trust me on this: If you like that, you’re going to love the fine sakes available and, if you don’t, you are in for a treat. In fact, sake aficionados will tell you that it’s actually a spiritual experience to drink sake, that they get an emotional lift from it, not to mention energy from the nutrients that do wonderful things for the human heart and imagination.

Simply put (which is impossible, because there’s lots to know about, but I’ll try), sakes are wines made from rice and water and while various sources say “it’s the rice” (anywhere from twenty eight to more than sixty varieties of rice cultivated are ideal for sake production, depending on the source) it really is a combination of the skill of the brewer, the source of the water as well as the type of rice used that will determine the final quality and taste.

Generally speaking, there are four types of sake categorized by how polished the rice is and whether grain alcohol has been added. Junmai-shu is made from rice and water only. Honjozo-shu is made from rice, water and a small amount of distilled alcohol for lightness and dryness and more fragrance. Ginjo-shu is a more highly milled rice and may be made with or without alcohol. Daiginjo-shu is made with an even more highly milled rice and with or without alcohol.

What differentiates the milling is the percentage of the grain that is removed. The more skin and protein removed (about 20 percent is taken away for table rice), the purer the starch content and the finer the sake will be. At the very least, thirty percent is milled away and, for the premium wines, forty percent. As much as sixty five percent may be milled away for truly superior sakes. Junmai-shu is milled thirty percent, Ginjo-shu forty percent, Daiginjo-shu from fifty to sixty five percent. Hard water with high mineral content yields a fuller sake, soft water a fresher, cleaner tasting brew. And, unlike grape-based wines, it needs to “balance” only six months before drinking. In fact, sakes are best when fresh (soon after release) and shouldn’t be kept for more than a week or so after being opened. Sake requires a double chemical process, first turning the rice starch to sugar (saccharification), then turning the sugar to alcohol (fermentation), using enzymes in the air and water versus chemical additives used by some wine and beer makers to complete their processes.

The history of sake begins in Japan, of course, then moves to Hawaii where Japanese countrymen were recruited to work in the sugar cane fields. About fifteen breweries were built in California at the beginning of the twentieth century, but all have disappeared since World War II. Later, around 1977, Japanese brewers began setting up shop in California and today some of Japans biggest operations have U.S. breweries which produce about two million gallons a year. Now, the race is on to produce a superior American-made wine.

From a dining standpoint, while you may serve a different grape-based wine to complement each course, when you serve sake, it’s the star, and the food is varied to complement the wine. And, with the now long-standing trend in low-fat eating, it’s a perfect accompaniment to pasta, seafood and, of course, anything Thai, Chinese or Vietnamese as well as Japanese.

Cool.

by Rhonda Adair

Are you eating your “5-A-Day” of vegetables? Watching your calories? Your cholesterol? If you are, you probably dutifully try to enjoy that garden-mulch salad, or brick of steamed pollack, again, while really wishing you could just sink your teeth into something more appealing. The problem, it always seems, is that if it is something you crave, it is probably not on your diet.That problem is a little less daunting if you are a sushi fanatic. Current nutritional data suggests that you can have your futomaki, and eat it, too. Sushi uses simple, healthy ingredients-seafood, seaweed (nori), rice, and vegetables-carefully seasoned and arranged to satisfy all the senses. Sushi is a perfect food not only for calorie counters, but also for those following more specific nutritional guidelines. So whether you’re trying to keep your high-blood pressure down, boost your energy level, or just fit into your favorite jeans, pick up your chopsticks.

Even the fattiest varieties of fish used in sushi-tuna, salmon, and eel-contain fewer than 200 calories per four-ounce serving. That’s about half what you’d get with a prepared steak. Shrimp and octopus are even lower, at only 100 calories per serving. And the fatty fish calories pack the nutritional power of not only protein, B-vitamins, and minerals like selenium, but also Omega-3 fatty acids. Studies continue to demonstrate the enormous role these fats play in maintaining a healthy heart, and metabolism in general. The Omega-3’s have even been touted to improve conditions such as arthritis, psoriasis, and depression.

Nori, rice and vegetables add another mere 150 calories per serving. These calories provide more vitamins, minerals, and fiber, especially if brown rice is used, and provide a good source of carbohydrates to complement the fish protein. Even wasabi can claim its own small health benefit, being rich in vitamin C.

The artful manner in which sushi is presented provides yet another health benefit to dieters. Portions are relatively small, by American standards, and consist of several bite-sized pieces, encouraging the diner to practice the art of slowly savoring one’s food. The intricate beauty and variety of flavors inherent in a sushi arrangement contribute to the savoring experience, making it a little easier than it might be, say, with a hamburger and a side of fries.

While the raw fish used in sushi is considered higher in many enzymes and nutrients than its still heart-healthy cooked counterpart, certain individuals, including pregnant women and those with immune disorders, should not eat raw fish or shellfish, because of the risk of exposure to bacteria such as Listeria monocytogenes, and parasites. However, for the majority of enthusiastic diners, these risks may be considered minimal, as long as the restaurant is reputable and obtains and maintains its fish according to high quality standards. Not all sushi uses raw fish, anyway; there are many options using cooked crab, shrimp, or eel, scrambled egg, tofu, or simply vegetables, to please the more cautious palate.

So rather than whiling away in the diet doldrums-hit your favorite sushi bar, and feed your body and spirit without the guilt. And as you savor each beautiful morsel, you might consider that a little less guilt in your life has to be good for you, too.