by Barrett Brown

SIMON’S SUSHI
810 N. Central Expressway
Plano, Texas 75074
972-881-0818
Although the name might throw off some purists, Simon’s Sushi is indeed run by an Asian chef (and although the oddly-monikered Simon Chuang is Taiwanese, not Japanese, his training is as orthodox as it comes). Simon’s deals in “new style” sushi, combining traditional Japanese offerings with the accumulated nuances of American sushi sensibility, and the menu is similarly haphazard, acting more as a basic guideline of what’s generally available than a full account; the waiter (often Chuang’s wife) is likely to suggest experimental dishes based on whatever fresh food fodder the kitchen has managed to acquire that day.